Napoli
June 2023
3 Days
To see the previous stop on this trip, go here to Amalfi Coast
Naples is actually the very first place I visited outside of the United States as my family is from there, so we took a trip to visit them in 2007. I remember Naples being was much different back then - piles of garbage in the streets, few people who spoke English, and definitely no tourists. Today, Naples is a tourism hotspot with direct flights to the US and cruise ships arriving every day. I try to stop in Naples at least for a couple days every few years to see family, so this trip to Italy was no different as we ended in Naples. Although this itinerary isn't what we did exactly on this trip, I've pieced together many experiences from over the years.
Contents
Daily Itinerary
Check-in to the Renaissance Naples Hotel Mediterraneo
Walk Via Toledo to find anything you might want to buy or eat.
Find the Royal Palace in Piazza del Plebescito
Look up at the glass domed Galleria Umberto I
Explore the narrow streets of the Spanish Quarter
Football fans can find the Maradona Mural
Head to the historic center of Naples, an area over 2,700 years old.
Eat some walking pizza and pastries.
Explore the underground city at Napoli Soterranea
Eat pizza at the famous Da Michele
View Naples from the best viewpoint in Posilippo
Catch the sunset from Parco Virgiliano
Visit the top of Mount Vesuvio
Explore Ancient Roman life in the preserved city of Pompei
Walk the grounds at the Royal Palace of Caserta
Ferry
Ferry Amalfi - Naples: $32
Flights
Easyjet Economy NAP-LUT: Cash one-way
United Airlines Business LHR-ORD: 60,000 United miles one-way + $316 taxes & fees
Hotels
Renaissance Naples Hotel Mediterraneo: 85,000 Marriott points for 2 nights + 1 free night certificate
▸ The only Marriott hotel in Naples in a great location near Via Toledo and easy access the metro lines or taxis. Overall a comfortable solid 4 star hotel.
Food (With Beli Ranking)
L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele (7.8) - Made famous in the movie Eat, Pray, Love there's always a huge crowd, but it moved quickly since there's only 2 options - margherita or marinara. Delicious Neapolitan style pizza but if you don't want to wait there's many more delicious pizza options throughout the city.
Full Itinerary
Day 1
Renaissance Naples Hotel Mediterraneo
There are very few American hotel options available in Naples, the Renaissance being the only Marriott property in the city. The rooms here were comfortable, although definitely a bit dated. Breakfast on the rooftop each morning had great views, although it was packed and the service slow.
The location of the hotel is great as it's just off Via Toledo, the main shopping street in Naples. There are two metro stations just a short walk away and there was also a taxi stand right outside making it easy to get anywhere in the city.
Rooftop View at the Renaissance Naples Hotel Mediterraneo - Naples, Italy 2023
Via Toledo
Via Toledo is one of the busiest streets in Naples and popular with tourists for shopping, both in stores and on the street. You can find anything on Via Toledo including lots of great street food such as the popular folded pizza (Pizza portafoglio) or fried arancini.
Via Toledo - Naples, Italy 2015
Piazza del Plebescito
Via Toldeo runs from Piazza Dante in the north and ends at Piazza del Plebescito on the south end. On one side of the square is the Royal Palace of Naples and the other is the Neoclassical copy of the Pantheon Basilica di San Francesco di Paola.
Piazza del Plebescito - Naples, Italy 2011
Galleria Umberto I
Modeled after the popular Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and built in the late 19th century a few years later, Galleria Umberto I is a covered shopping arcade right on Via Toledo. There are a handful of shops and restaurants inside although most place seemed closed when we visited. It's definitely worth a quick stop to see the architecture (and get some Instagram shots).
Galleria Umberto I - Naples, Italy 2023
Quartieri Spagnoli
The Spanish Quarter is a grid of narrow streets running off Via Toledo to the West. Historically, this was one of the most dangerous areas in Naples but today is one of the most popular tourist areas with many vendors and restaurants.
Quartieri Spagnoli - Naples, Italy 2023
When we visited, we happened to be in Naples during the last match of the season in which Napoli won the Serie A title for the first time in over 30 years. The whole city was packed with people cheering for the match. We found a small place serving drinks with a TV and a huge crowd standing in the street to watch.
Quartieri Spagnoli - Naples, Italy 2023
Murale Maradona
For any soccer fan, the Maradona Mural in the Spanish Quarter is a popular stop.
Maradona Mural - Naples, Italy 2023
Day 2
Centro Storico
The historic center of Naples has been the center of the city since it was first settled in the 8th century BC. Officially named Via Benedetto Croce, Spaccanapoli is the main street through the historic center. The street is always bustling and filled with many restaurants and small shops to get pizza, pastries, and many other delicious Italian foods.
Spaccanapoli - Rome, Italy 2023
I always make sure to get a Rum Baba.
Rum Baba in the Centro Storico - Naples, Italy 2023
Napoli Soterranea
Underneath the historic center of naples is a network of tunnels and caverns that has existed for nearly 2,500 years. Over that time, the underground has had many uses from a water reservoir to air raid shelters during World War II.
You can enter in the historic center and take a guided tour for a unique experience, but if you are claustrophobic there are some tight tunnels! A regular entry ticket will get you access to almost everything except the arena floor (pictured at the far end) and the underground, both of which require guided tours.
Napoli Soterranea - Naples, Italy 2023
The historic center is also where you will find the small pizzeria made famous in the movie Eat, Pray, Love. There's always a long line, but they move people through quickly. After all, the menu consists of two options - Margherita or Marinara.
L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele - Naples, Italy 2018
Posillipo
Posillipo is an affluent neighborhood of Naples on a hill along the waterfront. From Belvedere di Sant'Antonio a Posillipo you can see one of the best panoramas of the city, the Gulf, and Mount Vesuvio in the distance.
View of Naples from Belvedere di Sant-Antonio a Posillipo - Naples, Italy 2015
I recommend a taxi to get up to the viewpoint as this is the road to get there.
The Road up to Belvedere di Sant-Antonio a Posillipo - Naples, Italy 2015
Parco Virgiliano
Parco Virgiliano is a park in Posilippo named after the Roman poet Virgil, whose tomb is in the park. From the park you have great views of the Gulf and the island of Ischia in the distance.
View from Parco Virgiliano - Naples, Italy 2018
Day 3
Monte Vesuvio
The silhouette of Mount Vesuvius looms large over the city of Naples as it's only a 30 minute drive away from the city center. Although it is the only active volcano on mainland Europe, it's activity is minimal today.
View of Mount Vesuvius - Naples, Italy 2023
If you aren't driving, you can take the circumvesuviana train to Pompei and then take a bus up to the Mount Vesuvio National Park. You can get surprisingly close to the edge of the crater.
The Crater of Mount Vesuvius - Naples, Italy 2015
You also have a great view of the city of Naples from the top of Mount Vesuvio.
View of Naples from the Top of Mount Vesuvius - Naples, Italy 2015
Pompei
Pompei is the historical city at the foot of Mount Vesuvio that was covered by lava in the year AD 79. Because the eruption happened so quickly, the city was preserved under the lava giving us today a look into daily life in the Ancient Roman Empire.
Pompei - Naples, Italy 2007
Reggia di Caserta
Caserta is located just a 30 minute train ride north of Naples and most well-known for the Royal Palace. The grounds of the palace are just enormous and seem to stretch as far as you can see.
Royal Palace of Caserta - Caserta, Italy 2008
Overall
Naples is the first place I ever visited outside of the US and I've always loved how unique it is although it often has a bad reputation of being crowded, dirty, and dangerous. The first time I visited those may have been accurate descriptors but over the last 15 years, the city has become a tourism hotspot.
If you are planning to spend some time in the Amalfi Coast, I definitely recommend to spend a day or two in Naples. It's even a easy day trip from Rome to walk around a bit and get some of the best pizza on the planet.
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